dough with the fingers folded and the thumbs stretched out : that is what is called thrilling ; they work it up several times in the same manner, scraping the trough every time ; they introduce afterwards in the lump the dough that has been detached from it with a little water and carry it, in the same manner on the other side ; that is what is called contre sraser, or thrilling in the opposite way. The kneading is ended by making a hollow place in the dough and pouring water in it : this labour serves to confound and divide the coarsest part of the flour, and by the continued, quick and speedy motion, forms new air, which renders the dough more viscous, more equal, longer, and lighter, and it produces a bread better tasted and whiter ; this third labour is called Baffinage or fomentation. To add yet to the perfection which the fomentation gives to the dough, they strike it with the hands, pressing it by the sides and folding it up on itself, extending and cutting it with the hands closed, and letting it fall with effort.
The dough being thus sufficiently worked out, is taken from the trough and divided into such parts as are judged proper, cutting and striking it still, and placing it in a lump near the oven, where it must remain half an hour in winter, to enable it to preserve its warmth and to ferment, it must be turned and divided on the contrary, when the weather is hot. The effect of fermentation is to divide and to attenuate the new dough, to introduce in it a good deal of air, which as it cannot disengage itself entirely, being prevented by its viscosity and consistency, forms in it eyes, or little concavities, raises it up, widens and swells it : it is for that reason, that this portion of flour kneaded with the old dough, which determines all its effects, has obtained the name of leaven or levain from the French lever, to raise.
